Grease & oil marks on ejector pins

[Valentin Leung]

Hello,
From time to time, we have grease and oil marks appearing on ejector pins", even though we reduced our lubricant to the minimum, do you guys have a special technique to deal with them. Is there a miracle solution?
Thanks.

[Charlie400]

My molder advised me not to lubricate the ejector pins ever. He told me they don't need it and lubrication on them only carries out problems. I haven't got much experience, but he is supposed to be a good and experienced molder.

[brentb]

On a well made mold with guided ejectors you shouldn't need to grease the pins. This an old custom that like many, dies hard!

KOM
brent

[rickbatey]

Here's what I teach. You need to use the best grease you can find. I prefer Old Bull from DME I think it is. Next only grease the pin from rear toward mold surface, stopping about 3/4" from end. The ejection cyclingmy will spread the grease in the bore. The mold should not have self lubricating components and only about 3/4" land to support the ejector pin. Any more and it's too tight leading to galling and too much lube.
Now to clean as you run parts, I use baby powder with corn starch to absorb the leaching fluid. Many times the tool shop will be blamed when the floor guys will spray the ejection side with mold cleaner. That just liquifies the lube. Train then to spray a rag and wipe that side.
Rick.

[Josue]

Hi
I think you should always keep lub the ejectors, but if you are using a high temp on mold, or using oil on the MTC, you should use a hight temp grease,, Old bull its ok, litium base grase works ok,, but the most important is not over grease the ejector, use the amount and distance adecuate for each ejector, not just apply full grease on all ejector body,,,

also, some times the technicians when they perform a daily clean routing, some guys spray directly the mold cleaner to the moving side instead to wipe a rag, this also could release the grease,,,,

BR