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moldingppm
16th July 2013, 08:23 PM
Hey guys
2 things going on lately;
I have an Arburg 520c that I keep Germans oil temp overheat alarm (132*F) I have already changed my oil and filters and it barely helped. My water is currently 83*F @35PSI (about 88*F) outside. The way the oil is cooled is by having water running through coils wrapped around the filters in an exchanger. Is there a possibility the coils are clogged? This is the only machine over heating with the oil problem.

2). I have a Van Dorn ET-80. The rear zone, No Matter what I set it at, it goes to 500-520*F. I can set it at 32* and it goes to 500. i wouldn't be worried, But this causes melted material building up in the feed throat. Any ideas?

Thanks guys

Chris
17th July 2013, 12:03 PM
the arburg sound like a clogged heat exchanger.
Changing the oil would do nothing to fix this
Cleaning the heat exchanger would fix this.

the VD-80, could be a few things, my first thing to check would be a to check for a stuck contact/relay, then check the thermocouple to see how well it is seated(have you checked it with a instant read thermometer ?), lastly it could be the heater band.

chris

Pilot
17th July 2013, 01:18 PM
Hi,
ad 1) You can try to disconnect pipes from chiller and check flow.
If filters has a separe pump, check, if the pump is running (usually the coupling is destroyed) - you have to have a flow through filter unit.
Or you have a issue in hydraulic system and oil is heated too much (some valve is not fully open or closed)

Ad2)
Depends on regulation
As Chris mentioned - sticked relay
Shortcut in controler - triac shoud be break through and you will have a open way - nonstrop current into heater without of control. (machine is on temp limit and cannot stop heating because triac doesnt work. ......... this is speciality of SISE :-) - replace of SSR

moldingppm
24th July 2013, 09:20 AM
Okay, so I decided to run some CLR through the heat exchanger on the 520, it definitely helped. I need to do another pass.

And I haven't had a chance to look at the VD problem yet, not enough time in a day.

moldingppm
26th July 2013, 08:33 PM
I've replaced the ssr and checked the thermocouple, still not working. Now what?

rickbatey
27th July 2013, 12:52 AM
Either bad wiring allowing heater band to see constant voltage or the feed throat cooling is plugged as well. Did you confirm that you replaced all the zones SSR's? There could be two or three of them. Does the feed throat feel cool before you turn the heats on?
Rick.

moldingppm
5th August 2013, 07:31 PM
I found it. The wire on the inside of the plug came out and was grounding out.

But the best part is what happened saturday night. I had a nozzle misalignment. I was running POM and it had backed up over the nozzle about 1'. So, me being dumb and forgetting it was POM, I kicked the heats way up to melt the material off of the bands. This is something I've done with PP and PE before with no problems. Well, low and behold, the POM decided it wanted to have a bonfire. Luckily I caught it a few minutes after it turned into a fireball. So now, I have extinguisher chemical all over my machine. Most of the damage was to 2 of the barrel bands (thank god).

Does anyone have an easy way to clean the chemical off? It's ALL over the machine. I was using ShopVac, but was thinking about using compressed air. Any other opinions would be helpful.

Suhas
6th August 2013, 06:06 AM
Hey Moldingppm! I am glad you are here all OK to tell us the story. Be careful my friend - Saturdays nights are for having fun but not of this kind :)
Suhas

Marzum
6th May 2017, 07:35 AM
hello..i actually face the same problem..when switch off the heater, temperature of heater no 3 and 4 no going down still heat up until 300c...can you help me .tq

iautry1973
8th May 2017, 03:12 PM
On the Arburg I know that the control valves for the cooling can get plugged rather easily if your chiller water has a lot of sediment. We ended up following the manual and installing a good filter. Solved the problem.

brentb
9th May 2017, 04:09 PM
There are flow controls for waters at clamp end of press. The clear (supposedly) kind with brass floats so you can control water flow to heat exchanger. Also a water temp electronic/hydraulic valve for auto temp control. This under mold area near floor/bed of press.

Call Arburg service for more details.

KOM

brent